Foxbody 5-Lug & Disc Brake Conversion FAQ
The Foxbody Mustang, throughout its entire production run, came equipped with a pretty basic brake setup. Vented cast iron discs clamped by a single piston in the front and an archaic drum system on the rear. Only 1984-86 Mustang SVO's(2.3L 4 cylinder turbo) and the 1993 Cobra came equipped with 4 wheel disc brakes. Use the links below to answer the most common questions regarding upgrades to the stock Foxbody brake system, swapping to disc brakes or performing a 5-lug conversion.
Converting from 4-lug to 5-lug
Why convert to 5-lug?
Converting the front to 5-lug, what parts do I need?
Converting the rear to 5-lug, what parts do I need?
Foxbody drum to disc brake conversion
4-lug: converting to disc brakes, what parts do I need?
5-lug: converting to disc brakes, what parts do I need?
A note about master cylinders and brake boosters
The parking (e-brake) dilema
What can I do to improve the stock Foxbody brake system?
- Proper maintenance! This is perhaps the most important and cheapest aspect. Make sure to use a quality brake fluid, verify there is no air in the system, no contaminants, the pads and rotors are not worn out etc. An often overlooked measure is to flush the brake system entirely with new fluid (I'll admit, guilty as charged), not just topping it up when necessary.
- Get some performance rotors from a reputable manufacturer. There are slotted and cross-drilled rotors on eBay that list for $50 each, but I am not too confident of their quality. Mind you, I am always open to a bargain, so if you have run eBay rotors, please share your experience with me. Anyways, performance rotors tend to be slotted, dimpled or cross-drilled (or any combination of the 3) with the whole theory behind them is to better dispel heat, thus reducing brake fade. Some may argue that a cross-drilled and or vented rotor really doesn't do much and that a solid rotor is actually better, because it provides a larger rotating mass to heat. That is quite true, regarding the larger mass - however, it is my opinion that a solid rotor may take longer to heat up, but once heated, dissipating the heat is much harder and say hello to brake fade.
- Add some performance brake pads. Hawk is a highly touted name and have, I believe, 3 different selections depending on use (street, street/track, track only). Again, some good pads will reduce brake fade and increase overall bite.
- Install stainless steel brake lines. The potential issue with stock rubber lines arises within the composition - i.e: the rubber. Rubber is flexible material, and during hard braking it is possible for the brake fluid running through them to expand the lines, wasting pedal effort and travel. Stainless steel lines should prevent any major expansion and help firm up the brake pedal.
- Upgrade the stock caliper pin bushings (made of rubber) to steel. Just like the brake lines, because rubber is compressible, some of the braking force will go into compressing the bushings which in turn can marginally slide the caliper such that pad to rotor contact is not perfectly square.
- Regarding the drums, there isn't much you can do. Just verify they are in good (as good as they can get, which I believe isn't very good) working order and are properly adjusted. Check that the wheel cylinder is not locked up or leaking, the springs are not damaged or otherwise broken. If so, replace them. You can adjust the drums manually by taking the drum off and adjusting the adjuster nut, or by reversing your car, slamming on the brakes, going forward, slam on the brakes. Repeat this cycle a few times (I'm talking at speeds of 15 mph).
Another common and somewhat budget friendly option is to upgrade the caliper to a bigger one. The stock single-piston unit has a diameter of 60 mm. A direct bolt in replacement can be found from a 1991 Lincoln Mark VII. The Lincoln caliper has a bore diameter of 72.9 mm, so it should be able to provide some more clamping force. The larger caliper can also be found on these cars; 1986-91 Lincoln Mark VII 1986-91 Crown Victoria, 1984-86 SVO Mustang (4 cylinder turbo). You'll also need to upgrade the stock master cylinder (stock bore size: 21 mm) in order to run the larger calipers. A master cylinder from a 1993 Cobra or from 1994-98 Mustang V6 (all have bore size of 1-1/8") will work. All of these parts can be found in a scrap yard for dirt cheap.
73 mm calipers found on:
- 1986-91 Lincoln Mark VII
- 1986-91 Ford Crown Victoria
- 1984-86 Ford Mustang SVO (4-cylinder turbo)
- 1993 Ford Mustang Cobra
- 1994-1998 Ford Mustang V6 models
If you are looking for help on the actual installation process, please post in the forums.
Converting from 4-lug to 5-lugCOnvert the rear to 5-lug, and then to disc brakes.This is by far the best method of upgrading the stock Foxbody brake system, but also the most expensive (gotta pay to play!). There are many different options, first and foremost, 4 lug disc or 5 lug disc, aftermarket kit or junk yard finds...
Why convert to 5-lug
There are a few benefits gained from converting the stock Foxbody 4 lug setup to a 5 lug setup. First and foremost, there are many more wheel options to choose from, as the majority of manufacturers produce 5 lug designs (this is not to say there are no 4 lug choices... I am solely saying the 5 lug pool is larger). Furthermore (we'll get a little technical here), when switching the front over using parts from an SN95 donor, steering geometry is improved and thus is turn in, and the SN95 setup uses a sealed wheel bearing that is separated from the rotor. No more packing and repacking bearings if you need to take the rotor off. It also lays the foundation if you wish to go with an aftermarket or Cobra big brake upgrade kit (Brembo, Baer, Wilwood etc.).
Switching the rear to 5 lug is all about upgrading the drums to discs. You can retain the drum brakes AND use 5 lug wheels, but as previously mentioned, the rear brakes aren't so great, so if you're gonna swap to 5 lug, it is advisable to spend a few extra dollars and convert the drums to discs (click here to skip 5 lug talk and jump straight to disc brake conversion).Converting the front to 5-lug
Converting the front to 5 lug is pretty simple. You can use the rotors from any of the following:
- Mid-80's Lincoln Continental
- 1985-91 Lincoln Mark VII
- 1984-86 Ford Mustang SVO
- Aftermarket 5 lug discs
Converting the rear axle is not too difficult, either. First thing you will need is some axles found from:
- 1986-97 Aerostar (passenger side only!)
- 1983-92 Ranger/Bronco II (driver side only, from 4cyl or 3.0L V6 w/7.5" rear end)
Axles from 1994-98 Mustangs can work too, but they will increase the wheel track by 3/4" per side. Be careful when you choose what axles you want to go with, because although stock track and SN95 track axles both work to swap the Foxbody to 5-lug, you have to watch wheel spacing and fitment dependent on which track you've chosen to go with.
If you are going with a 5 lug disc brake setup, read the next section for more information about the disc brake conversion.
Foxbody Rear Drum to Disc Brake Conversion4-lug: converting to disc brakes
Converting the OE 4-lug drum into a 4-lug disc brake setup using the stock Mustang axles necessitates the use of rear calipers from any of the following cars;
- 1987-88 Ford Thunderbird
- 1993 Mustang Cobra
- 1987-88 Mercury Cougar
- 1989-92 Ford Taurus
- 1988-92 Lincoln Continental, 1991-92 Lincoln Mark VII
- 1990-92 Mercury Sable
Regarding caliper brackets, I do not believe any of the stock Ford sourced brackets will fit. Perhaps with some modification they can be made to work, but I am unsure. Alternatively, there is a ready-made version, by North Race Cars, that you can purchase and will bolt right up, no modification to any component necessary. (I think they are $150 for a set).5-lug: converting to disc
If you want to go with a 5-lug disc brake setup, of course you first have to convert to 5-lug! After that, you can source nearly all of the parts from any 1994-98 Mustang (be it a GT, V6 or Cobra... any will do).
What you need from any 1994-98 Mustang: left & right calipers, caliper brackets and 10.5" solid rear rotors (5-lug, booyah baby!). I have heard that the stock SN95 (94-98) caliper brackets will work, with a little modification, simply by swapping right to left and left to right. The previously mentioned 'little modification' comes in the form of grinding down the inside of the bracket so that it doesn't grate against the bracket mount. Again, North Race Cars also sells a pre-made, direct fit bracket kit if you prefer a guaranteed fit. Alternatively, just grab the entire rear-end (8.8") and drop it in.Aftermarket Kits
Up until now we focused solely on a budget build, sourcing nearly all parts from other vehicles. The aftermarket does provide pre-packaged kits for both 5-lug conversion and disc brake conversion. If you would prefer to go this route, check online with your favorite vendors. Most offer their own conversion package featuring new parts.
If you want to go seriously aftermarket (and spend a pretty penny or two), check the offerings from known brake vendors such as Brembo, Wilwood and Baer.Some other useful information for BOTH 4-lug and 5-lug disc conversions
Some other parts you will need; adjustable proportioning valve and solid end cap, a new master cylinder (2 port, bore size dependent on caliper size) and some adapters to connect the caliper soft brake lines to the rigid lines. Generally speaking, a 1-1/8" master cylinder from a 93 Cobra or SN95 Mustang will be more than fine for the job.
Soft lines can be sourced from 1994-98 Mustangs, or be a handy-man and come up with your own adaptive solution. A note about the master cylinder, it is possible to convert a 3-port MC to a 2-port, so there is always that option too. As far as I know, it isn't too difficult, you just need some special adapters.
Furthermore, you may need to swap the stock brake booster out for another one if you change master cylinders. A booster from any SN95 V6 will work great.The dreaded parking brake (FIX)
Perhaps the biggest area of confusion regarding a disc brake swap (regardless of 4 or 5-lug) is how to get the parking brake to work. For this, you will need new e-brake cables. Specifically: (2) FMS M-2809-A cables, (1) FMS M-2810-A center e-brake cable. There is also a special modification that must be done at the parking brake handle for it to work correctly. In a nutshell, it requires eliminating the self-adjusting mechanism on the handle by cutting the tensioning spring and permanently attaching (via welding) the pawl onto the ratchet gear.
Final thoughts and cost discussion
This guide was constructed to provide a general insight into what precisely is needed to complete a disc brake & 5-lug conversion on a Foxbody Mustang. Overall cost for any of the aforementioned conversions is highly subjective to where you source your parts. Junk yard A may charge more than scrap yard B. Perhaps Jack has a super deal on Craigslist whilst John is asking a little more. It is really quite hard to give a definitive price. Alas, no one wants to hear this, so I'll throw out some numbers.
|5-lug conversion (RETAIN drum brakes)||$200|
|4-lug rear disc conversion||$200|
|5-lug rear disc conversion (brake parts ONLY)||$300|
|Misc (fluid, adapters)||$30|
Any questions regarding specific parts or installation procedures, feel free to fire away in the Foxbody 5-lug/disc conversion thread.